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		Rose Care in Chicago Select the right rose for your garden: Landscape Roses: Shrub Rose: Grows 3-5 ft. Dense mounding type shrub that is a prolific bloomer and very easy care. Disease and pest resistant. Outstanding rose for busy people and beginner gardeners. Not good for cut flowers. Ground Cover Rose: Grows 1-4 ft. high & has the same characteristics as a shrub rose. Garden Roses: Hybrid Tea Roses: Grows 3-4 ft high. Largest flower with single bloom on a stem. Good for cutting. Must be treated for insects and fungus but the rewards are worth it. Plan to plant other perennials in front or near the base. Grandiflora Rose: Generally taller than a tea rose, & produces smaller flowers on a single stem or may be clustered. Good for cutting gardens. Floribunda Rose: Grows 2' - 3' Smaller shrub than a Tea rose with smaller multi blooms on a single stem. Good for color in the garden. Climbing Rose: Grows 8'- 12' Long canes that must be attached to and arbor or trellis. Some climbers will only bloom once a year. Newer varieties will bloom all season. Note: Never trim a climber back for winter. Trim out dead wood only in the spring. English Rose: Modern varieties of Old Fashion roses. Heavy pedaled blooms with strong fragrances. Many are re-blooming. Miniature Rose: Small shrub growing 1 -1/2 - 3ft. tall. Profuse bloomer with small multi blooms on a stem. Note: Do not confuse this with annual mini roses that will not come back after winter. New Generation Roses These roses do not have a bud union, but are grown on their “own root”. Since there is no graft site, these roses are more disease resistant and less vulnerable to winter damage. We are very happy to be able to offer these roses because they tend to do better in our harsh climate. They are available in Tea, Grandiflora & Floribunda roses. Look for “New Generation” on the tag. Note: Landscape roses are all own root.Roses will provide continuous blooms all summer long. We try to sell only varieties that will perform well and winter well in Chicago. Basic Care 1) Select a site where your rose will receive at least 6 hours of full sun per day. Morning sun will result in the largest blooms, the brightest color & the best disease control. 2) Plant your rose in an organic rich garden that drains well. 3) Provide 1 inch of water per week directly to the soil. Avoid getting the foliage wet. Water well, soaking to a soil to a depth of 8-10 inches. Light sprinkling results in a shallow root system. 4) Provide regular fertilization (every two weeks) from April 20th through August. 5) Apply mulch in spring to help retain moisture, prevent water splashing on foliage, and prevent disease and pest damage. 6) Set up regular (very 2 weeks) pest & disease control program. 7) Deadheading will encourage new blooms: To remove the spent flowers, cut _ inch above a 5-leaflet leaf. Cut on a angle sloping downward toward the center of the bush. 8) Prune in early spring (March) before leaves emerge. Cut back to 4 or 5 canes, six inches above ground level. Planting: Dig a hole twice as large as the container and deep enough to get the bud union below ground 1 inch. Gently remove some soil and loosen the roots before placing in the hole. Back fill the hole with a rich mix of garden soil and organic compost. We recommend Bumper Corp mixed with your top soil. If your planting a tree rose you should stake the tree to prevent wind damage. Water and feed you rose with a granular fertilizer, time release or a systemic fertilizer & pest control. Disease & Insects: 90% of roses lost over winter are a direct result of diseased & weak shrubs going into the cold weather . Your best defense is a preventative program. For: Hybrid Tea's, Grandiflora, English, Climbers, Miniatures &Floribunda: Set up a spray program staring in march for Downy Mildew. Switch to an every 2 week 3-in-1 spray in May through September. Finish the season in October or November with dormant oil to kill any fungus or eggs that could cause problems next year. Downy Mildew: Develops very early in the season (March-April). Looks like black spot. Once you see the problem, it's to late to treat and your shrub will likely dye. A preventive spray program using Mancozeb is the only defense Powdery Mildew: A fungus that appears as a white powder on the leaves & buds. Treat with Infuse, copper dust or Rose 3-in-1 spray. Mildew is a result of wet foliage. Black Spot: A fungus that causes black spots on the leaves. Treat by removing & dispose of infected leaves. Dusting or spraying with Infuse, copper dust or Rose 3-in-1. Repeat application every 7-10 days during growing season. Black spot is a result of windy conditions. All Insects: Aphids, red spider mites, leafhoppers and Japanese beetles are all controllable with Systemic Rose Care, used 2-3 times per season. Eight or Rose RX3-in-1 can be used every 7 -10 days or as needed. All landscape roses (Shrub, groundcover or hedge roses) are very insect and disease resistant. The above problems can exist, but are less common. Systemic controls work well and spray cycles can be done once a month. Winterizing Stop fertilizing Sept 1st. Continue to water every other week. In November, after the first killer frost is the best time to winterize your roses. Apply a dormant oil to kill any insect eggs or disease spores that may be present. For Tea's, Floribunda, Grandifloras, English, and Miniature Roses: 1) Loosely tie the canes together 2) Mount soil at the base of the plant. 3) Once the soil freezes & temp is near freezing for 1 week, mulch (6”) your shrub. Remember to remove mulch in early March. For Climbing Roses: 1) Secure rose to support & wrap the canes loosely with burlap. 2) Once the soil freezes & temp is near freezing for 1 week, mulch (6”) your shrub. Remember to remove mulch in early March. We do not recommend rose cones in Chicago because of our ever-changing weather. Mulch your shrub once the ground freeze We do not recommend planting and wintering roses in containers. If you must do a container, bring your container into the garage and water a small amount once a month until early March. Once we are past the hard freeze point, get the container out of the garage. Container roses need once a week fertilization.